There are many interesting holidays in Russia, including the birthday of the Russian vest, which is celebrated on August 19. Although it is not yet official, it is very popular in our country. It is especially widely celebrated in St. Petersburg, where enthusiasts celebrate it as their own tradition. The “Amateur” decided to recall the history of this piece of clothing.
Telnyashka (popularly also called telnik) is a striped shirt (hence the name), which is worn as a uniform item by military personnel in many countries, but only in Russia has it become a special symbol, a distinctive sign of real men. The date August 19 was also not chosen by chance. There is information that it was on this day in 1874, on the initiative of Grand Duke Konstantin Nikolaevich Romanov, who then held the highest naval rank - admiral general, Emperor Alexander II signed a decree on the introduction new form, by whom the vest (a special “underwear” shirt) was introduced as part of the mandatory uniform of the Russian sailor. The emperor also approved the “Regulations on the allowance of the commands of the Naval Department in terms of ammunition and uniforms,” which stated that this uniform was intended for the “lower ranks of ships and naval crews” of the Russian fleet. And the vest itself was regulated as follows: “A shirt knitted from wool in half with paper (ed. - with cotton); The color of the shirt is white with blue transverse stripes spaced one inch apart (44.45 mm). The width of the blue stripes is a quarter of an inch... The weight of the shirt is supposed to be at least 80 spools (344 grams)...".
The blue and white transverse stripes of the vests matched the colors of the St. Andrew's flag, the official flag of the Russian navy. And it was assumed that the new part of the uniform would be comfortable and functional.
The blue and white stripes of the vests corresponded to the colors of the St. Andrew's flag
Today it is popular not only among sailors. It must be said that in general vests as such are not a Russian “invention”. The prototypes of vests appeared during the heyday of the sailing fleet, around early XVIII centuries, and were “born of life itself.” In the navy, it was very practical - it retains heat well, fits tightly to the body, does not restrict movement during any work, and dries quickly. Moreover, from the very beginning, the vest was striped (although the stripes were colored, and the sailors themselves sewed them onto the shirt) - against the background of light sails, the sky and in dark water, a man in a vest was visible from afar and clearly. However, this approach resulted in an incredible variety of cuts, colors and stripes, so the “striped shirt” was considered a non-statutory form of clothing, and people were punished for wearing it.
Attitudes towards her have changed mid-19th century, when the Dutch naval uniform of a short peacoat, flared trousers and a jacket with a deep cutout on the chest, into which the vest fit perfectly, came into fashion, and it was included in the sailor’s uniform. In Russia, the “fashion” for vests began to take shape, according to some sources, since 1862, according to others - since 1866. And the military reforms of 1865-1874 greatly changed the appearance of the Russian armed forces, and Russian sailors began to wear Dutch uniforms, including a vest.
In the middle of the 19th century, the Dutch naval uniform came into fashion
As a result, by decree of Alexander II in 1874, it was legalized as part of the uniform of a Russian sailor. Moreover, at first, vests were issued only to participants long hikes, and they were very proud and cherished. In addition, they were first purchased abroad, and only then production was established in Russia. Mass manufacturing of vests first began at the Kersten factory in St. Petersburg (after the revolution - the Red Banner factory). Moreover, initially the white stripes were much (4 times) wider than the blue ones. Only in 1912 did they become the same in width (a quarter of an inch - approximately 11 mm). At the same time, the material also changed - the vest began to be made from cotton and wool. But the color of the stripes remained unchanged - white and dark blue.
After the revolution of 1917, the vest did not lose its popularity at all; wearing it was still prestigious. But in Soviet time, in addition to the white and blue vests, new “color solutions” have appeared. For example, the marines and rivermen wore vests with black stripes, and when the uniform for the Airborne Forces was created in 1969, by analogy with the uniform of sailors, vests were included in the uniform of the paratroopers, but the color of the stripes was changed to sky blue.
As a result, in the 1990s, vests with stripes of different colors were developed and officially “approved” for other branches of the military: black (naval submarine forces and marines), green (border troops), maroon (special forces of the Ministry of Internal Affairs), cornflower blue (FSB special forces, Presidential Regiment), orange (EMERCOM).
Sailors of all generations of the Russian fleet call the vest the “sea soul”
Also, a naval vest is included in the uniform set of naval and civil sea and river cadets educational institutions. However, it was the white and blue vest that was destined to become not only the “favorite” of the sailors, but also their symbol of valor and brotherhood. Sailors of all generations of the Russian fleet call it the “sea soul” and wear it with pleasure not only in the fleet, but also in everyday life. Moreover, these clothes are popular not only among professionals, but also among ordinary people - both adults and children. It has long become not only an element of naval equipment, but also an item of clothing for many people not associated with the navy. For example, a well-known popularizer of this “striped shirt” is the French fashion designer Jean-Paul Gaultier, who presented several blue-and-white striped ready-to-wear collections in the 1990s.
Interesting Facts:
It is believed that a sailor who goes to the open sea for the first time (no matter on a fishing boat, merchant ship or military cruiser) immediately joins the brotherhood of brave conquerors of the sea elements. There are a lot of dangers there, and sailors are the most superstitious people in the world. And one of the main maritime beliefs is associated with dark and light stripes applied to the vest.
It turns out that, unlike land citizens, every real sailor is sure that the abyss is inhabited by various demons and mermaids, and each of them poses a serious danger to the conquerors of the seas and oceans. To deceive them, they used a vest: it was believed that, having put on such a shirt, the sailors seemed to the spirits of the sea to already be dead, of whom only skeletons remained.
The first to wear a robe with black and white stripes were fishermen from French Brittany to protect themselves from the spirits of the sea. At the beginning of the 17th century, this superstition spread throughout the Old World.
Having put on a vest, the sailors seemed already dead to the spirits of the sea.
Starting from 1852, according to the French standard, the vest was required to have 21 stripes - according to the number of major victories of Napoleon. In turn, the Dutch and English preferred a vest exclusively with 12 transverse stripes - the number of ribs in a person.
It is well known for what merits the vest migrated from the sea to land. The reason for this is the use of sailors in land military operations during the Civil and Great Wars. Patriotic War. For some reason unknown to historians, the sailors turned out to be better fighters than their land counterparts.
No wonder the enemy called the Marines “striped devils” in fear. There is still a popular saying in Russia: “We are few, but we are wearing vests!” During the war, it was supplemented by another: “One sailor is a sailor, two sailors are a platoon, three sailors are a company.” In the first battle on land on June 25, 1941, near Liepaja, the Baltic sailors put to flight the Wehrmacht soldiers who had previously captured half of Europe.
Sources
- http://oursociety.ru
- http://interesnogo.ru/
- http://www.calend.ru/
Among sailors, a knitted undershirt with transverse white and blue stripes, commonly called a vest, is a particularly favorite garment. The vest got its name due to the fact that it is worn on a naked body.
What did the vest look like before, what are the stripes and what does their color mean?
History of the vest
The vest appeared during the heyday of the sailing fleet in Brittany (France), presumably in the 17th century.
The vests had a boat neckline and three-quarter sleeves and were white with dark blue stripes. In Europe at that time, striped clothes were worn by social outcasts and professional executioners. But for Breton sailors, according to one version, a vest was considered lucky clothing for sea voyages.
In Russia, the tradition of wearing vests began to take shape, according to some sources, in 1862, according to others, in 1866. Instead of narrow jackets with uncomfortable stand-up collars, Russian sailors began to wear comfortable flannel Dutch shirts with a cutout on the chest. Under the shirt, an undershirt was worn - a vest.
At first, vests were issued only to participants of long-distance hikes and were a source of special pride. As one of the reports of that time says: “lower ranks... mainly wore them on Sundays and holidays during shore leave... and in all cases when it was necessary to be smartly dressed...". The vest was finally established as part of the uniform by an order signed on August 19, 1874 by Grand Duke Konstantin Nikolaevich. This day can be considered the birthday of the Russian vest.
The vest has a great advantage over other underwear shirts. Fitted tightly to the body, it does not interfere with free movement during work, retains heat well, is convenient to wash, and dries quickly in the wind.
This type of light sea clothing has not lost its importance today, although sailors now rarely have to climb the shrouds. Over time, the vest came into use in other branches of the military, although in few places it is an official part of the uniform. However, this item of clothing is used both in the ground forces and even in the police.
Why is the vest striped and what does the color of the stripes mean?
The blue and white transverse stripes of the vests corresponded to the colors of the Russian naval St. Andrew's flag. In addition, sailors dressed in such shirts were clearly visible from the deck against the background of the sky, sea and sails.
The tradition of making stripes multi-colored was strengthened in the 19th century - the color determined whether a sailor belonged to a particular flotilla. After the collapse of the USSR, the colors of the vest stripes were “distributed” among the various branches of the military.
What does the color of the stripes on the vest mean:
black: submarine forces and marines;
cornflower blue: presidential regiment and FSB special forces;
light green: border troops;
light blue: Airborne Forces;
maroon: Ministry of Internal Affairs;
orange: Ministry of Emergency Situations.
What is guy?
In the navy, a guy is called a collar that is tied over the uniform. The real meaning of the word "geus" (from the Dutch geus - "flag") is a naval ensign. The flag is raised daily on the bow of ships of the 1st and 2nd ranks during anchorage from 8 a.m. to sunset.
The history of the appearance of the guy is quite prosaic. In the Middle Ages in Europe, men wore long hair or wigs, sailors braided their hair in ponytails and braids. To protect against lice, hair was smeared with tar. To prevent tar from staining their clothes, the sailors covered their shoulders and back with a protective leather collar, which could be easily wiped clean from dirt.
Over time, the leather collar was replaced with a fabric one. Long hairstyles are a thing of the past, but the tradition of wearing a collar remains. In addition, after the abolition of wigs, a square cloth collar was used for insulation - in cold windy weather it was tucked under clothes.
Why are there three stripes on the butt?
There are several versions of the origin of the three stripes on the butt. According to one of them, three stripes symbolize three major victories of the Russian fleet:
at Gangut in 1714;
at Chesma in 1770;
at Sinop in 1853.
It should be noted that sailors from other countries also have stripes on their butts, the origin of which is explained in a similar way. Most likely, this repetition occurred as a result of borrowing the form and legend. It is not known for certain who first invented stripes.
According to another legend, the founder of the Russian fleet, Peter I, had three squadrons. The first squadron had one white stripe on its collars. The second has two stripes, and the third, especially close to Peter, has three stripes. Thus, the three stripes began to mean that the naval guard was especially close to Peter. (
Few people know that the women's vest as an independent element of naval employees appeared several centuries ago. At that time it was impossible to buy a fleece vest, so sailors knitted such clothes themselves, making them from threads of various colors. Such clothes were comfortable in any weather, because they were not afraid of moisture and reliably protected a person from the vicissitudes of nature.
However, then a ban was introduced on wearing this type of clothing, and for more than several decades, the sailors’ uniform did not contain this important attribute. However, already in the mid-nineteenth century this ban was lifted, and the maroon vest became an official part of the sailors' uniform. Along with this, naval employees wore flared pants and a trowel.
IN modern society The interlock vest is worn not only by military personnel, but also by civilians. This is the favorite clothing of many men and women, because the vest is warm and comfortable, it is pleasant to the body and does not cause discomfort. Made from a combination of synthetic and natural fibers, the insulated VDV vest has the following properties:
elasticity;
warmth;
hygroscopicity;
wear resistance;
hypoallergenic.
Among all the clothing worn by various departments, the most noticeable and distinctive is the Marine Corps vest, which has a number of characteristics. That is why it is not enough for employees of certain organizations to simply buy a vest with long sleeve, but it is necessary that it corresponds to the charter of their particular unit. The Airborne Forces, the Ministry of Internal Affairs, the FSB and other government departments have their own uniform, so you cannot, for example, buy an Airborne Forces vest while serving in the Ministry of Internal Affairs.
Buy a vest (GOST)? Easily!
On our store website you can see a wide range of different products. Moreover, each of the presented models is available in many sizes, so buying a Navy vest that suits you will not be difficult here. We offer each of our clients:
a wide range of products;
prompt delivery;
discounts for regular customers;
affordable pricing policy.
We understand that you need to buy a winter vest from own funds, therefore, we are doing everything possible to make the cost of this form element accessible to all consumers. You will definitely be able to choose from a colossal assortment of products, so if you need a VV Ministry of Internal Affairs vest (long sleeve) or knitted elements of a summer uniform, then you can buy from us exactly the product that is right for you.
Depending on the season for which the clothing is intended, the type of fabric may differ. For example, a vest (double thread) with a fleece is suitable for the autumn-winter season, while a green vest made with one thread is more suitable for summer.
The Airborne Forces vest-shirt, made in blue and white tones and having a small cutout in the neck area, has similar qualities. At the same time, along with blue and green products, in our catalog there is a red vest, this is not a statutory, but very comfortable thing that civilians wear. Most in demand Our store uses the PS vest, as well as models that comply with the charter of government departments, namely:
Navy vest (blue, GOST), which can have both short and long sleeves;
FSB vest, which is part of the uniform of employees of the department of the same name;
clothing for patrol officers, police and other structures.
Buying a vest that will meet all the requirements of your regulations is easier than ever, because we have managed to collect in our catalog a lot of goods for the military working for certain departments of our country. Choose which Marine Corps fleece vest you like best and place your order. We, in turn, will make sure that the vest is camouflage excellent quality and complies with all regulations of your organization.
In our store we have both a standard black vest, which can be supplemented with department emblems, and other products that have nothing to do with military service, for example, a children's vest. We will arrange delivery, so you only need to select the product and complete its purchase. Complete your wardrobe with truly necessary and high-quality items.
On August 19, Russia celebrates the birthday of the Russian vest. It was on this day in 1874, on the initiative of Grand Duke Konstantin Nikolayevich Romanov, that Emperor Alexander II signed a decree on the introduction of a new uniform, by which the vest (a special “underwear” shirt) was introduced as part of the mandatory uniform of the Russian sailor.
Mine professional holiday workers of the sea and river fleet annually on the first Sunday of July.
How the vest used to look, what the stripes are like and what their color means, see the infographic.
The vest appeared during the heyday of the sailing fleet in Brittany (France), presumably in the 17th century.
The vests had a boat neckline and three-quarter sleeves and were white with dark blue stripes. In Europe at that time, striped clothes were worn by social outcasts and professional executioners. But for Breton sailors, according to one version, a vest was considered lucky clothing for sea voyages.
In Russia, the tradition of wearing vests began to take shape, according to some sources, in 1862, according to others, in 1866. Instead of narrow jackets with uncomfortable stand-up collars, Russian sailors began to wear comfortable flannel Dutch shirts with a cutout on the chest. An undershirt was worn under the shirt - a vest.
At first, vests were issued only to participants of long-distance hikes and were a source of special pride. As one of the reports of that time says: “lower ranks... mainly wore them on Sundays and holidays when going ashore... and in all cases when it was necessary to be smartly dressed...”. The vest was finally established as part of the uniform by an order signed on August 19, 1874 by Grand Duke Konstantin Nikolaevich. This day can be considered the birthday of the Russian vest.
The vest has a great advantage over other underwear shirts. Fitted tightly to the body, it does not interfere with free movement during work, retains heat well, is convenient to wash, and dries quickly in the wind.
This type of light sea clothing has not lost its importance today, although sailors now rarely have to climb the shrouds. Over time, the vest came into use in other branches of the military, although in few places it is an official part of the uniform. However, this item of clothing is used both in the ground forces and even in the police.
Why is the vest striped and what does the color of the stripes mean?
The blue and white transverse stripes of the vests corresponded to the colors of the Russian naval St. Andrew's flag. In addition, sailors dressed in such shirts were clearly visible from the deck against the background of the sky, sea and sails.
The tradition of making stripes multi-colored was strengthened in the 19th century - the color determined whether a sailor belonged to a particular flotilla. After the collapse of the USSR, the colors of the vest stripes were “distributed” among the various branches of the military.
What does the color of the stripes on the vest mean:
Black: submarine forces and marines;
cornflower blue: presidential regiment and FSB special forces;
light green: border troops;
light blue: Airborne Forces;
maroon: Ministry of Internal Affairs;
orange: Ministry of Emergency Situations.
What is guy?
In the navy, a guy is called a collar that is tied over the uniform. The real meaning of the word "geus" (from the Dutch geus - "flag") is a naval flag. The flag is raised daily on the bow of ships of the 1st and 2nd ranks during anchorage from 8 a.m. to sunset.
The history of the appearance of the guy is quite prosaic. In the Middle Ages in Europe, men wore long hair or wigs, and sailors wore their hair in ponytails and braids. To protect against lice, hair was smeared with tar. To prevent tar from staining their clothes, the sailors covered their shoulders and back with a protective leather collar, which could be easily wiped clean from dirt.
Over time, the leather collar was replaced with a fabric one. Long hairstyles are a thing of the past, but the tradition of wearing a collar remains. In addition, after the abolition of wigs, a square cloth collar was used for insulation - in cold windy weather it was tucked under clothes.
Why are there three stripes on the butt?
There are several versions of the origin of the three stripes on the butt. According to one of them, three stripes symbolize three major victories of the Russian fleet:
At Gangut in 1714;
at Chesma in 1770;
at Sinop in 1853.
It should be noted that sailors from other countries also have stripes on their butts, the origin of which is explained in a similar way. Most likely, this repetition occurred as a result of borrowing the form and legend. It is not known for certain who first invented stripes.
According to another legend, the founder of the Russian fleet, Peter I, had three squadrons. The first squadron had one white stripe on its collars. The second has two stripes, and the third, especially close to Peter, has three stripes. Thus, the three stripes began to mean that the naval guard was especially close to Peter.
08.09.2014 0 24525
August 19 this year marks exactly 140 years since, in 1874, by imperial decree of Alexander II, the vest was officially included in the list of ammunition required to be worn by Russian sailors. Since then, this date has been considered the birthday of the Russian vest, and the striped shirt itself has firmly entered the life of the Russian sailor. But the story of its origin is still shrouded in mystery.
DEAD MAN'S JACKET
It is believed that a sailor who goes to the open sea for the first time (no matter on a fishing boat, merchant ship or military cruiser) immediately joins the brotherhood of brave conquerors of the sea elements. There are a lot of dangers there, and sailors are the most superstitious people in the world. And one of the main maritime beliefs is associated with dark and light stripes applied to the vest.
It turns out that, unlike land citizens, every real sailor is sure that the abyss is inhabited by various demons and mermaids, and each of them poses a serious danger to the conquerors of the seas and oceans. To deceive them, they used a vest: it was believed that, having put on such a shirt, the sailors seemed to the spirits of the sea to already be dead, of whom only skeletons remained.
The first to wear a robe with black and white stripes were fishermen from French Brittany to protect themselves from the spirits of the sea. At the beginning of the 17th century, this superstition spread throughout the Old World.
Starting from 1852, according to the French standard, the vest was required to have 21 stripes - according to the number of major victories of Napoleon. In turn, the Dutch and English preferred a vest exclusively with 12 transverse stripes - the number of ribs in a person.
PAPER SHIRT
Speaking seriously, the appearance of the vest at sea was dictated by the harsh circumstances of sea travel and it is very strange that it did not appear before the 17th century. Not wanting to draw information from dubious sources, the author of the article turned to a rear admiral he knew with a request to tell him where this striped shirt actually came from. The admiral laughed and said: “Even at school, the teachers told us: stripes on a vest so that you can see the nets against the background of the sails.”
Indeed, during a voyage or sea battle, it was vitally important for the boatswain of a ship to see how many people were at work. A man in a striped blue and white shirt is clearly visible against the background of both white and colored sails. In a situation where a sailor found himself overboard, the vest again greatly facilitated his search and rescue. But the main thing why sailors fell in love with the vest is its composition.
For example, after the introduction of the vest into the uniform of Russian sailors, the official document said: “A shirt knitted from wool and paper in half,” that is, cotton. This made it possible to ventilate the body during hot weather and warm it during cold weather.
The first vests were knitted. During long journeys, sailors sometimes crocheted and knitted their favorite clothes themselves - this occupied their leisure time and greatly calmed their nerves.
OUTLAW
Despite the popularity of the vest, XVIII century it was banned. The reason for the ban, despite the obvious stupidity, was quite logical. Naval leadership number European countries considered the vest to be a non-statutory form of clothing. Indeed, sailors often knitted it by eye, without observing standards for the quality of the material and the length of the stripes.
In addition, at that time, official naval uniforms appeared in most countries. So the vest disappeared from the active use of sailors for almost a hundred years. Some sailors, out of old habit, wore a vest under their clothes, but were severely punished for this.
The striped shirt was rehabilitated only in the middle of the 19th century, when the Dutch naval uniform came into fashion: a short peacoat, flared trousers, jackets with a deep neckline on the chest, from which the stripes were visible. From that moment on, every sailor was required to have at least three vests in his wardrobe.
"SOUL OF THE SEA"
In Russia, the vest became a symbol of reckless courage, heroism and contempt for death. Today it is difficult to say when Russian sailors first saw striped shirts on their foreign colleagues. Most likely, this acquaintance occurred in the 17th century in Arkhangelsk, during a visit to the port by English or Dutch merchant ships.
It’s surprising why Peter I, who almost entirely took over maritime traditions Holland, did not immediately borrow a vest. Only in August 1874 did Grand Duke Konstantin Nikolaevich Romanov issue a decree to Emperor Alexander II to include the vest in the naval uniform.
In the first Russian vest, the distance between the blue stripes was approximately 4.5 cm. It was believed that the blue and white color scheme of the vest repeated the colors of the St. Andrew's flag. The white stripes turned out to be much wider than the blue ones. Equality between them was established only in 1912. From that moment on, the width of the stripes was a quarter of an inch, in modern terms approximately 1 cm. The material now began to be exclusively cotton.
At first, the production of vests took place abroad. Only over time was it established in St. Petersburg own production at the Kersten knitting factory, after the revolution renamed “Red Banner”.
It didn’t take long for a striped shirt to become a casual shirt. At first it was intended exclusively for long trips. As usual, lower ranks could wear it only on Sundays, on days public holidays, as well as on shore leave. Thus, the vest from a convenient household item for some time turned into an element dress uniform. But the sailors still tried to wear it every day, affectionately calling it “the soul of the sea.”
STRIPED DEVILS
Since 1893, the vest became part of the uniform of the flotilla of the Separate Border Guard Corps on the White, Black and Caspian Seas. Classic blue stripes in 1898, the stripes were changed to green, as they remain among the border guards to this day.
The special forces of the internal troops wear a vest with maroon stripes, the FSB special forces and the Presidential Regiment wear cornflower blue stripes, and the Ministry of Emergency Situations wear orange stripes. Marines, like submariners, dress in a vest with black stripes.
Why were these colors chosen? This is a sealed secret. But it is well known for what merits the vest migrated from the sea to land. The reason for this is the use of sailors in land military operations during the Civil and Great Patriotic War. For some reason unknown to historians, the sailors turned out to be better fighters than their land counterparts.
No wonder the enemy called the Marines “striped devils” in fear. There is still a popular saying in Russia: “We are few, but we are wearing vests!” During the war, it was supplemented by another: “One sailor is a sailor, two sailors are a platoon, three sailors are a company.” In the first battle on land on June 25, 1941, near Liepaja, the Baltic sailors put to flight the Wehrmacht soldiers who had previously captured half of Europe.
Their favorite vest also played a role in the successful completion of combat missions by Soviet sailors. The fact is that the sailors, as a rule, went on the attack wearing only vests, the stripes of which created optical illusion more people than actually happened.
The command, making sure that the sailors never retreated, threw the “striped devils” into the breakthrough in the most difficult sectors of the front. It was because of the courage of the sailors on the fields of the Great Patriotic War that on July 6, 1969, the vest became part of the uniform of the airborne troops.
Dmitry TUMANOV